![]() A ex-GM certified technician that manages a Speed Lube told me he can tell by looking at the car, that the hub assemblies are bad. I plan on having the hub assmeblies replaced-when I get the money. I want to pass it on to my 16 year old daughter, but I am not sure if the car is safe enough. What a gem of a car! Now the car has 80,000 miles on it. They resurfaced my brakes when the car only had 20,000 miles on it! A bad battery cable burned up three baterries until they found the problem. So far, the dealer has replaced my front tie rods three times and the intermediate steering shaft/gear? twice. Later, I experienced rattling noise and looseness in brakes and steering. Dealer said this was "normal" ABS self-check sound. Grinding noise in the front driver's side. I bought the car new for its looks and comfort. Wish me luck!! I am an aircraft mechanic, I'm attempting cars now! The voltage regulator is built into the alternator on most newer vehicles. You change the battery and the battery light still comes on. ![]() When you have the alternator tested (for free at an auto parts store), they will tell you that the alternator is good, but the battery is bad. If it is cutting out at too low of a voltage, you get a battery light and eventually the lights go dim and the car dies. Here is something good to know, the voltage regulator tells the alternator when to stop charging the battery. Today I had the battery/alternator issue. Used some oil treatment, we shall see if I get lucky there too. (also stopped getting cheap gas at mini-marts) Also seem to have high oil consumption. Replaced the socket and it is fine so far. The sockets short out commonly on this vehicle. Almost immediately I had the turn signal issue. I bought a used 99 Oldsmobile Intrigue a few months ago. Thanks again for anyone with input and advice. This was not a feature really needed in southern Florida where we purchased the car, but up north where we are it would be nice. Press the button and the indicator light goes on for a split second then goes off and no heat. So if anyone can give me some advice I would really appreciate it.įinally, a very minor problem is the passenger seat warmer does not work. I checked the oil and there is no sign of coolant in the oil (cracked heads are a problem on the 3.8 liter, this is a 3.5 liter, but I thought that I would check anyway). Also, the coolant fluid in the reservoir would go up and down in level fairly dramatically. I saw that the noise was being made by a water hose that is located just behind the transmission dip stick and going transverse to the stick parallel to the dash. ![]() ![]() Sure enough after about 20 minutes the symptoms began, but the temperature gauge did not go as high. Next morning I uncapped the coolant reservoir and ran the engine in idle. (This exact scenario in a 2000 Intrigue has been described by someone on this site about a year ago, but I never saw a comment addressing a potential solution to this issue.) Anyway, the temp warning light never went on. As the temp gauge went in the higher range we could hear this knocking sound under the hood. After that I found that driving for about 20 min the temp gauge started going from mid range to ¾ high and back again. I added perhaps a half of cup of the approved coolant (Dex). When we got up north I checked the engine coolant. We drove the car from southern Florida up north without a single problem. I recently purchased a 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with 35,000 miles – well cared for, I know the former owners.
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